This one is rare indeed! One of one creation to say the least!
It started as one of my realistic faux paint textures. The effect done using four different colors of paints from chrome to black with some pearl silver and galaxy grey layered in and over each other, while using several techniques like dry brushing and literal scrapes…to eventually get a believable look of aged metal. But…again….its all paint!!
Then I needed something that would contrast this aged metal patina and thought what would be a more stark contrast than HOT PINK!!? Thus the side flames were born from a two stage custom mix of auto air/wicked colors.
I had to leave it at that point because I thought it might be toooooo much of a contrast. But eventually warmed up to the combo.
I thought it might need a little more tho and added some chrome-ish flames on roof and nose!
All lights and chutes detailed as well as the rear windows blacked out.
Chassis features white redline rubber tires! Was disassembled and black washed to bring out more detail and tone done the bright chrome appearance a little. Wheels also black washed. Seat/roll cage pretty much stock except a few well placed exacto cuts to remove parts of the steering wheel and roll cage above driver seat.
Body is removeable. It will also stay attached to chassis when fully closed OR..fully upright position.
The odd mix of colors and patina…really does go well with each other, from body to tires!
Watch for the SALE LINK to be announced soon!!
How about a rare peek at my Blue Blazes FIRE technique??
Ok…you got it! lol
STEP 1 ~ loose fire added and coated with candy blue.
This layer is the first one and is eventually going to be more of a glow or background when subsequent layers are applied. So it is done loosely, mostly freehand with the nozzle of the airbrush tilted at a 45 degree angle, blowing towards the rear of the casting.
STEP 2 ~ Starting to add tighter, more defined fire licks.
Now I begin adding tighter defined licks with a mixture of AutoAir Wicked detail White, Transparent Base and High Performance reducer. Its almost a milky looking liquid. 2 drops of Detail Blue wicked is added to the mix when in airbrush. I am using a Badger Sotar for this step and HotDawg stencil from FlameMasks.com
to create the fire licks.
STEP 3 ~ More licks added.
Adding more fire licks. Notice these licks generally are inside the confines of the first layer but do not follow it completely. The first layer also acts as a “road map” of where the fire will go on in subsequent layers..
STEP 4 ~ Fire licks of layer 2 are completed.
And the last of this layers fire licks are done. Notice these licks while more defined than the previous layer, are still a bit wide and loose. This is how each layer should progress. Each layer becoming tighter and more defined than the last while still not following the same paths exactly.
STEP 5 ~ Erasing and defining the licks.
I used a trans parent black to define and “erase” unwanted licks or areas of the 2nd layer fire licks. This should be done with care.
STEP 6 ~ 2nd Layer completed with a few coats of candy blue.
This is the final step for the second layer of fire. Candy blue is applied in several light layers fading from dark to very light towards the front. More layers of candy are applied at the rear than the front, creating a fade in the color.
More layers will be added (usually about 5 to 6 total} after this. Each getting more and more defined than the previous layers. The final two layers should be adding a lot less new licks, but rather add to existing licks. Thise should be small areas where the fire would be the most “hot” if it were really burning. In the last couple layers, remember the old saying “Less..is MORE.”
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